Yes. Our ductile iron castings are 100% made in America. Most of our other parts are also made here, but not 100%. Depending on the model, between 80% and 85% of the parts are from the USA.
Here at Wyeth-Scott we drill the raw ductile iron castings, drill hooks, cut cable/rope, install cable/rope ends, install hooks on cable/rope, cut pipe, splice synthetic rope, punch handles, install grips/labels on handles, install safety latches, assemble pullers, paint pullers, plus much much more. Also see: WS vs. Foreign
Manage (lease) industrial/commercial warehouse space located on Dayton Road in Newark, Ohio, just off 16 East. There are 26 units/buildings ranging from 1,600 SF to 7,500 SF. Zoned M-1 light manufacturing. Each unit has a "minimum" of two overhead garage doors and an office. Please call us if you're interested in leasing a building in central Ohio.
Go to our "Orders" section for online ordering (Continental USA and Canada) or give us a call at 800/743-4521 or 740/345-4528. Our hours are Monday - Friday 8:30 - 5:00 ET.
You may also contact us to see if we have a dealer in your area. We mainly sell to construction supply companies, forestry suppliers, farm suppliers, etc. Also, if you search the internet, you will find online ordering with some of our suppliers.
Yes, in Canada and Mexico. Please see the International Suppliers page. We do ship internationally and to APO's. Please email, or call, for a shipping quote and mention what items you are interested in. A few examples of shipping costs for a 3-35-A-SLT as of January 22, 2018 are:
Australia & New Zealand 185.40
Hong Kong 144.50
United Kingdom 138.60
These prices are subject to change at anytime and are in US currency.
Email us and request a shipping quote. Please include exactly what you are interested in; and your country.
Note: Your country may charge taxes, duties, import fees, or tariffs on your purchase when it arrives and you will be responsible for it. Wyeth-Scott does not know what charges you may incur. Those charges would be solely your responsibility.
If you would like to place an order, email your complete name, shipping address and telephone number. International addresses can be confusing for us, so please indicate what are the street, city and province.
You can simply call us with your Visa/MasterCard information or do a fake online order to get your credit card information safely here. If you do it online, enter fake information in the telephone and zip code fields, etc.. Example: Phone# 111-111-1111 * Zip 43055. In the comments section, reference our emails. Ignore the total of the online order! You will be charged what is quoted in the email.
Cheaper and more versatile. Pull from front, rear or even upright a rolled over vehicle from the side. Many electric winch owners also own our puller as a backup and because it's portable. Since it is portable, you can use it to pull down trees, pull stumps, move boulders, move trees in your path, loan it to friends, hundreds of uses.
It should. Our model 2-35 puller can actually "lift", straight up off the ground 4,000 lbs. A good example of dragging or pulling something is this: If you lay underneath your vehicle, can you lift it? If you put your vehicle in neutral, can you push it?
No and yes. We sold 40' for years, but replaced it with the 35' model. Inexperienced users continuously had problems with the cable bird caging (tangling) on the reel. Basically, 40' is too much on the reel. A few suppliers still buy that model (2-40), but we do not sell that model ourselves to the end user. Please do not buy the 40' model unless you have lots of experience using pullers. If you think you might need added distance, you might want to purchase our 5/16" slings made out of cable.
ABSOLUTELY NOT. The use of a cheater bar voids the warranty and puts your life in danger. Our handle (part # P7 and # P7-3) is a calibrated handle and is designed to bend when the unit exceeds the rated capacity. This is the main safety device of the unit.
It's a good idea. If you need to order the handle separately, we recommend buying at least 2. The shipping cost is about the same for two as it is for one (the shipping costs more than the handle does).
The effort that it would take to operate the puller is going to depend on several things, such as the weight of the object being moved, lifting or dragging the object, the medium the object is in, slope, etc. Obviously, a 200 lb. object is not going to take nearly the effort a 4,000 lb. object would. To prevent damage to the unit, the handle is designed to bend once the user exceeds the safety rating of the puller. On a 2 ton unit, this happens at approximately 173 lbs. of force on the handle, which is the approximate equivalent of 4,000 lbs. of "lift" effort from the puller. On a 3 ton unit, this happens at approximately 316 lbs. of force on the handle, which is the approximate equivalent of 6,000 lbs. of "lift" effort from the puller.
Yes. This is a new item as of 3/05/2010. We are now offering an 18" extension handle that fits into the standard 18" safety handle. Total handle length would then be 33.25". This decreases the effort needed in half. With the extension handle, the 2 ton unit maximum effort would be 86 pounds of force, and the 3 ton unit 158 pounds of force.
They are exactly the same material and size as the standard safety handles, but have a swag on one end of it. They have the standard grip on the non-swaged end. You must remove the grip from the standard handle to insert the extension handle in to it. The grip may come off easily, but might not. The 2 handles fit snuggly together. If you want, with the 2 handles together, you can drill a hole in them and insert a cotter key to keep them together. Part # P7-EXT is for the 2 ton units and part # P7-3-EXT is for the 3 ton units. They can not be interchanged, so be sure to order the appropriate extension handle for the handle you have.
* Note: The P7-EXT (2 ton) will not fit handles sold in approximately 1989, or earlier.
No. You would only want to order one extension handle. The regular safety handle will still bend where it should. One nice thing with having the extension handle is that when (if) the regular handle bends, you can cut the regular handle off and keep using it until you don't like the leverage that is left. The regular handle (P7 or P7-3) can be cut off up to 4 times. You should drill a ¼" hole in it for the cotter key.
The 3 ton unit is identical to the 2 ton unit, except that the 3 ton unit has a larger and stronger tackle block hook and a heavier handle. That is the only difference. The 3 ton unit has less of a built in safety factor than the 2 ton units.
No. This is hard to explain, but with a heavy 3 ton load if there is more than 20 feet of cable around the reel, the outer strands of cable get pulled beneath some of the upper layers of cable. The strands pulled underneath get wedged in with the under layers and can't be removed. FYI: This is not a problem with the 2 ton units.
Yes, but only use 5/16" 6 x 37 fiber core wire rope - Improved Plow Steel. It is extremely important to only use this cable for safety reasons. The More Power Puller is an extremely powerful tool and to use a smaller cable would put your life in danger.
Maybe. We are careful not to have too many retailers in one area. Please contact us to see if a dealership is available in your area. New distributors must initially buy 12 units (in any combination) and also buy 12 in the future to get the best price.
THIS PULLER ABSOLUTELY MUST BE KEPT GREASED!
9/64" grease holes are drilled in important places of the puller for your convenience.
P16 = Where yoke attaches to the frame. Holes drilled on both arms of yoke.
P8 = Tubular Rivet is greased from a hole drilled in the center of the R17 Reel hub.
P9 = Rivets that attach the pawls should be greased from the underside.
P15 = Clevis Pin found in the center of the sheave of the tackle block hook.
SLT = All safety latch springs and screws. (puller option)
Older Pullers > If it does not have grease holes drilled, you will need to grease around these same areas.
We recommend the use of a grease gun with small tip or a Push'n Lube grease gun. Please see our documents page here for details. If a grease gun is not available, the use of lithium grease in an aerosol can with a straw may be substituted.
The most common cause of cable damage is improper spooling. Spooling the initial wraps of cable on the reel under tension is critically important to keep the cable from diving into the loose packed cable.
When your puller is shipped from our factory, the cable is NOT tightly wound.
It is always best to start pulling a load with the minimum number of wraps around the reel. This is especially important with the first few uses.
When a load is applied to the puller, the cable layers under the upper cable layers act as the drum. If the lower layers are not tightly wound under load they will let the outer layer to wedge down into the lower layers causing severe damage to the wire rope. They will also get stuck preventing free spooling back out.
There are no model numbers on the pullers, just the rating, such as 2 ton, 3 ton or 1 ½ ton. The rating is located on top of the frame where the cable (rope) goes thru and on the bottom of the frame, below the frame hook.
If it has cable (rope), measure it.
Model # examples: 2-20 means 2 ton with 20 feet. The 1st # means what tonnage it is and the number after the dash means the length of cable (rope). If the hooks have safety latches (SLT), then it would be 2-20-SLT.
The below information "might" help you determine the year it was made. These are approximate years.
1934 to 1970 or 1974 - Frame Legs - 2 ton frame of the puller had legs prior to this (2 pieces of metal riveted on the bottom of the frame). The 1 ½ ton never had legs.
1934 to 1973 - Rivets - #P9 (holds pawls in) and #P10 (holds yoke in frame) - Installed with a ball peen hammer and chisel.
1970 or 1974 - Frame Size (2 ton) - Full size frame. Bottom of frame now covers the bottom of the reel (top to bottom).
1973 - #P9 (holds pawls in) and #P10 (holds yoke in frame) - Installed with air "star" chisel (looks like a "X" and center is indented)
1974 - Sleeve - Started using a sleeve to attach H1 end hook. Prior to that, 2 cable clamps were used.
1981 - Yoke for 1 ½ ton - Changed the 1 ½ ton yoke to the current style (#P16) and the spring changed from P21 to P11. Yoke was called a P3.
1984 - Rivets - #P9 (holds pawls in) and #P10 (holds yoke in frame) - Installed with riveting machines.
1985 - Frame Hook (2 ton) - Changed from being welded on to being kept on with a nut.
1985 - Frame Hook and End Hook - Hooks are now dated. Example: W-10/85 or H1/85 would be the year 1985
1990 - Spring - Spring on the bottom pawl had a bend in it which went in to a hole in the frame prior to this year.
1992 - Drag Spring - Added a drag spring between the reel and frame.
1992 - 1 ½ Ton Model - Discontinued between 10/01/1991 and 03/01/1993.
1993 - Tackle Block Hook - Switched from an iron casting, painted black, which was non-removable to a steel investment casting which is removable.
2001 - Date Stamp in Yoke - Since 2001 there has been a month/year stamp in the #P10 rivets. These rivets hold the #P16 yoke on the frame. Most have numerical dates such as 0205, but a few had FEB05. 0205 = February 2005. On older models there are sometimes codes in these rivets, but we do not know what they mean.